The oenologist Antonio Sánchez undertook an oenological revolution in the family winery of Aguilar de la Frontera, in Cordova, in the 1960s, which ended up influencing all of Montilla-Moriles. His success was in knowing how to interpret the legacy of time inside the American oak butts of the old sweet PX wines and his alchemist genius, his culture and personality have made Bodegas Toro Albalá one of the most charismatics in Spain. The original winery dates from1844, when it was located in a mill known as La Noria, in a Castle’s hillsides of an Andalusian town. The leading role was then for fino wines. Later, in1922, the oenological facilities began to house the building that used to be the power plant that supplied the population, hence the name of its popular "Fino Eléctrico".
When he took over the management of the Sánchez winery, he began to investigate with the sweet vintage wines that his predecessor had the wisdom to keep, he fortified them a little more until they reached 17 grades so that they wouldn’t be cloying. He also decided to make them by harvest, not by the solera system.
The oldest they sell is the one from 1929, which, like the rest of their most venerable wines, was bottled manually directly from the 40 arrobas butts of Cordova, as well as its labelling process is also artisanal, following the 'Norma Recula 'of San Benito who prays "living off the work of our hands."
The production begins with the harvest of Pedro Ximénez grapes from mid-August. Their clusters of are laid under the sun on almijares of esparto grass or canvases for two weeks. They are checked every day to separate the bad grains. Afterwards, the raisined grapes are crushed with care not to break the seeds and that paste goes to a press of the classic type used in oil mills. From here it’s the oxidative ageing that will decide in the long term the characteristics of this elixir.
The most recent Don PX Gran Reserva they currently have is from 1987 and has had a28-year tenure in oak butts. It is mahogany in colour, opaque with iodized trim. Intense, complex aroma, with hints of raisins, figs, dates, coffee, cocoa, spices, liquorice. Dense, unctuous, persistent in palate, with bitterness that balances the sweetness.
Toro Albalá's PXs are special for the way they have been elaborated and the nuances acquired in their long ageing, unique and different in each vintage, they harmonize with dark chocolates, coffee and cigars. A glass that is sad to rush it, ending those privileged moments.
