THREE FORTS THAT DESERVE ATTENTION: THE MYSTERYOUS BEAUTY OF OXIDATED WINES!

6/11/2018

THREE FORTS THAT DESERVE ATTENTION: THE MYSTERYOUS BEAUTY OF OXIDATED WINES!

BySaša Špiranec:

2018.10.15 at 12:34

Because of the recent visit to Croatia of some of the most important producers of fortified wines in the world, the Toro Albalá winery, we have tried three wines from Jerez that deserve attention.

On of the most important international wineries, Toro Albalá winery, together with other dozen wineries, is coming soon to Croatia for an event organized by the embassy of Spain’s Economics and Trading Office in Zagreb. Toro Albalá is going to introduce the Don PX Convento Selección 1958 and the Marqués de Poley Palo Cortado 1964. Don PX Convento Selección 1958 is valued between 98 and 100 points by the most important wine critics, including Mr. Robert Parker. Furthermore, the prices of these wines are lower than the other wines of similar quality, like the most popular wine Château Bordeaux. The high-class Spanish wines convey exotic, mystic and strange beauty. They have nothing to do with standard wine. Commonly known as Sherry or Jerez wine, which is actually the name of the area where it’s elaborated. There are other winemaking areas of good quality in Andalusia like Málaga and Montilla-Moriles.

These oxidative wines have extraordinary longevity, as the oxidation methods during fermentation and subsequent maturation eliminate the fruity taste and other desirable aromas of modern wines, but at the same time, it allows the preservation of a range of very different aromas during decades, with hints of walnut and caramel.

You can open a bottle of a Jerez or Montilla-Moriles wine, have a glass, and drink the rest of the bottle in a month, two, or even six, that the wine won’t change at all. Other types of wine would go bad in a few days. Thanks to their longevity, fortified wines became popular during the sailing days because changes in temperature did not affect them, unlike standard wines.

On his trip around the world, Magallanes took with him 253 barrels and 417 leather jars filled with Sherry wine. But the true popularity of fortified wines was achieved during British world domination. His obsession with sherry and porto coincided with the time of British colonial rule. For this reason, until four, five decades ago most of the world's winemaking countries such as South Africa, Australia, New Zealand and the US produced mainly fortified wines and not those that we know today. With the introduction of electricity and refrigerators in homes, interest in fortified and oxidative wines waned, and interest in lighter and fresher wines with fruity aromas grew exponentially.

At the tasting that the Embassy of Spain in Zagreb is preparing for the wine experts on October 25 at the Westin Zagreb hotel, you will have the opportunity to learn about all the stylistic forms of fortified wines and liqueur wines that are produced today in Spain. From a very soft and clear style of the Fino, to the more developed and mature style of the Manzanilla and Amontillado, going through the Palo Cortado, with a rich and strong style of oloroso. These are all dry wines. As for the sweets, the Moscatel and Pedro Ximénez varieties will be presented.

YUSTE WINERY, SHERRY AURORA MANZANILLA approx. 170 km, 89/100

Light yellow in color, similar to standard wines, completely dry, 15% alcohol. Typical oxidative aromas of chamomile, grated apple and salt, mild acidity, long duration and intense minerality and a sensation of aftertaste. Palomino variety. An ideal introduction to a dinner or to be served with seafood tapas.

TORO ALBALÁ,MARQUES DE POLEY, PALO CORTADO 1964. Approx. 1000 km, 96/100

A Platinum Medal winner at the Decanter World Wine Awards with 97 points, he impressed a large number of professionals. The aromas of nuts and dried grapes abound, in the mouth it is salty, caramel and candied orange peel flavours; fantastic acidity that stings the tongue, lingering finish. A masterpiece. Elaborated with the Pedro Ximénez grape variety.

TORO ALBALÁ, DONPX, CONVENTO SELECCIÓN 1958. Approx. 2000 km, 99/100

Elaborated with Pedro Ximénez grape variety dried under the sun. The main aromas are chocolate, ginger, dried grapes, walnut liqueur and dried figs, as well as candied citrics and cedar, tones of herbs and spices, such as cinnamon and sandalwood. In the mouth it is very sweet, at the same time that it’s slightly acidic. Perfect.

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